Mixing loosens up the compound for minimal effort, the mud becomes easier to apply. Setting compounds will cure faster than drying compounds will dry, so you can apply the finish two coats sooner.ĭrying compounds are purchased in premixed form, and most of the time, the premixed drying compounds are the proper consistency for embedding tape right out of the bucket or box, but mixing the compound is still recommended. Setting compounds are stronger than drying compounds, but if you’re using a paper or fiberglass-mat tape, added strength is not the reason to use hot mud, it’s speed. They still need to air dry before the drywall can be painted or otherwise decorated, but it only needs to set before coating with the next layer of compound. A setting compound (sometimes called “hot mud”), on the other hand, cures by a chemical reaction. Drying compounds shrink slightly when they dry, but this shrinkage is not a problem if you use a paper or fiberglass-mat tape, as I will explain further on. The heavyweight, all-purpose material (the original type of all-purpose compound) is stronger than lightweight or mid-weight compounds.īy a “drying-type “compound, I am referring to a compound has to air dry before subsequent coats can be applied. I prefer to use an all-purpose, heavyweight, drying-type joint compound for embedding paper and fiberglass-mat tapes. If you get the first coat right, the other two coats are relatively simple. The joints must be as strong as the drywall itself, otherwise normal movement of the wall and ceiling framing can cause cracks to appear at the seams. But if you get the tape embedded properly in joint compound to begin with, you create a strong foundation. Some folks think that it’s the sanding or the finish coats that are most important. In my opinion, the first coat (when you embed the tape) is the most important part of the drywall finishing process. Fiberglass-mat tape is at least as strong as paper tape and gets embedded in a similar manner but, like fiberglass mesh, is made from an inorganic material. This saves you from the juggling act of applying mud and tape simultaneously. Fiberglass-mesh tape is self-adhesive and is more popular with people who tape only occasionally, because it has a light adhesive on it and you can run it out over the seams and then cover it with compound. Paper tape is the tape used most often by professionals. In this article, I’ll focus on the methods I use for taping beveled (or tapered) seams with the most common types of tape-paper, fiberglass-mat, and fiberglass-mesh. But there’s a lot more to hand-taping beveled drywall seams than slapping a bunch of mud on the wall and running tape. The tape strengthens the joint, and the joint compound, or mud, is the adhesive that holds the tape in place. All drywall seams need to have tape embedded in joint compound.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |